Lately, I’ve been seeing a variety of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-however there’s one element that I don’t want to include in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear before, you in all probability know that many ending methods for the legholes and waistline include woven elastic band, both fold-over elastic, picot, and even braided elastic encased in fabric. In the event you adored this informative article as well as you desire to get guidance about elastic band (linked site) generously go to our webpage. I don’t know about you, but none of my prepared-to-wear underwear have elastic in the legs-and sometimes they don’t within the waist both. That is the type of underwear I like greatest.
So, where does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear as a result of it feels too restrictive, but I need to make my very own underwear. That is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to indicate you methods to swap elastic for a knit band elastic band to complete your underwear!
– Tape measure
– Extra paper
Let’s do that.
Be sure that your fabric meets the stretch necessities acknowledged within the sample you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers sample, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork sample, it includes a stretch guide to help you see if the fabric you need to make use of has sufficient stretch in it. Here are some Seamwork patterns you should utilize:
– The Geneva panties are a traditional selection, particularly if you want to make use of stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are good for biker-short style underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work well with a knit band instead of elastic.
– The brand new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You can also make these without the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of on a regular basis underwear.
Cut your sample out and sew together all the essential pieces. Here is my constructed garment apart from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that can assist you determine how lengthy your knit bands must be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I must do some math.
You want some math as a result of in the event you reduce the knit band the same size because the leg gap or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic finish. You want to find the perfect amount of detrimental ease in your knit band to stay in place and match securely-however comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-here at Seamwork, and she suggested me to follow a easy equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the whole circumference of the opening.
I want to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and a great place to begin! Depending on your fabric’s restoration, you could need to do some testing to get the precise circumference. You’ll be able to all the time baste your band to your underwear to test the fit first.
So, since my leg gap is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I reduce my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.
I need my bands to be a bit wider, so I minimize them 2 inches huge, however you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go beneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. If you happen to reduce your bands too slim, they may need some more bulk at the seam allowance. When you reduce them too wide, you could have issues fitting your gusset.
Sew the two quick ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to at least one side. Helpful hint: If you’re utilizing a serger, use just one needle to cut down on bulk when serging.
With wrong sides collectively, baste the uncooked edge.
With proper sides together, pin the knit band evenly along the leg gap. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/8 inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You can see this in motion on this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance towards the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to carry the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that same process in your different leg gap and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor has a watch for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she desires to make sure your online experiences are fun and pleasurable.
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